Hunter Fan Company 19077 Laurel Ridge 5-Light Chandelier in Natural Iron Finish - Rustic Farmhouse Ceiling Light Fixture for Dining Room, Living Room & Bedroom

I got this to replace an old, outdated bright-brass dining room chandelier, and it changes the entire room. First, seeing it was from Hunter Fan, I knew it would be a great quality piece. I've installed their fans many times, by far my first choice when a suitable style is available, and they've been unfailingly first-rate. This is too, a solid, well-built fixture with all of the potential design and installation peccadiloes thought-out and solved ahead of time.It's heavy, but they provide a sturdy ceiling plate (Image 1) that allows for that issue rather than, like some manufacturers, expecting the junction box and its 2 tiny screws to support the weight. In addition to the standard 2 screws that attach this plate to the junction box, the plate has 6 other screw holes, one at each corner and 2 along the center line. If you're unlucky like me, none of those will line up with ceiling studs. Hunter knows this and provides the hollow wall anchors and screws as well, so no extra trips to the hardware store are needed!Once measured, aligned square with the walls, and mounted with the 6+2 screws and anchors, this plate is rock solid. Two sturdy bolts project downward from the ceiling plate. The cover plate (Image 2 & 3) will eventually fit over those and be held in place by two heavy, sturdy, black metal decorative cap nuts. As you can see on the image of the back (or upward-facing, image 3) side of the cover plate, they've welded an additional heavy u-shaped trough of steel down the middle for added support, even though the cover plate itself is quite sturdy. Zero chance this will weaken or deform unless you let gorillas swing from it, and maybe not even then.There is also a short steel cable with attached carabiner clip pre-installed on the back side of the cover plate. This is to hang it from the junction box opening while you run and your wires up through and attach them to the power supply; I left it attached when installed too, because why not?Image 2 shows the face side of the cover plate, the 2 holes for the bolts and the 2 rings to which you will eventually attach the hanging chains. In the middle of each of the two rings are the holes the wire will pass up through from the light; you can use either depending on which side the combined chain/wiring is on in your installation - strictly personal preference. The wires, both electrical cord and copper ground wire, are already woven through the pre-attached chain on one side of the fixture. Just feed them up through the hole, cut to desired length, and make standard attachments (wire nuts provided).The second (unwired) chain comes separately and unattached, but with 2 screw-closure attachment links provided, one for each chain end - no bending open links and then trying to get them bent back into shape to close them, so no weak links! (The screw-closure attachment links for the wired-side chain are pre-attached to the chain, just screw open, adjust chain length, hang, and screw shut.)The chain is sturdy and requires a bit of effort to bend open a link to adjust the chains to desired length, but 2 pairs of pliers and a little muscle will do it - and they give you oodles of chain and wire, most of which I didn't need for my installation. Once all wired up, chain and wire adjusted to desired length, and all 4 screw-open attachment links ready to go, you'll need someone to help lift this light into position while you attach the cover plate to the ceiling plate with the 2 black, knurled cap nuts. Then attach the chains to the loops provided on top of fixture and on down-facing surface of cover plate and screw the attachment links closed. Install black metal "candle sticks" (which just drop in over light sockets) screw in your bulbs, and you're set!Photos 4 & 5 show the light lit; I put in 60W incandescent candelabra flame-tip bulbs (more on that in a moment) and it could light up a stadium. 6 x 60= 360 watts - yikes! I need to downgrade to 40W, I think, or we'll need sunglasses to dine.I'd wanted to use far more efficient LED bulbs, but when I did, they continued to glow dimly - and continuously - when the light was switched off. I thought I must have done something wrong and researched the issue. Turns out this is very common with certain dimmer switches, and with 2-way switches (switches on 2 different walls to control the same light, like mine) because of a tiny amount of bleed-thru wattage from the dimmer switch or the parallel lines of 2-way installations.It's not dangerous in any way, and would probably only be annoying in a bedroom - and it only affects LEDs, not fluorescent or incandescent bulbs. You can replace your dimmer switch (Lutrons are highly recommended for LED installations) and see if that works, or hire an electrician to reroute the parallel lines, but that's a lot of extra $$.I switched to incandescent bulbs for that reason - but I discovered while doing so that a single incandescent bulb can be used with 5 LEDs in the other sockets and that too solves the issue, as the one regular bulb absorbs the tiny bit of leak-thru wattage and prevents the others from glowing at all, yet all still works fine when switched on. I'll probably go that route if I can find LED's similar enough in color and output so that the one oddball dosen't look like an oddball.So anyhow, I highly recommend this attractive fixture. It's largish and heavy-ish, but very well-designed and engineered.